Neogoth
[ 18 February 2008 ]
It seems ironic that a little over a year after I wrote my first ever article — Fashion Help For Recovering Goths — I’m now writing about goth as a high fashion trend. But before you go thinking I’m just switching my position willy-nilly, I should explain that there is a marked difference between that piece & this one. FHFRG was about changing old, staid habits & embracing a new you, while neogoth is about adopting a dark aesthetic but making it stylish & sophisticated. So you see, they’re both about positive change — just in different ways.
So, what’s neogoth about, anyway? First of all, it has nothing to do with The Matrix — perish the thought! Nor does it have anything to do with bright, neon colours. ‘Neo’ is meant here to mean recent or new. Combine that with ‘goth’ & you get a fresh, modern version of the goth aesthetic. & not a moment too soon!
I found out about neogoth recently by having a dig around on the Fashion Spot (best fashion forums ever). Someone started a thread about neogoth in 2005, but the look seems to have really exploded & started blossoming recently. My guess is that the trend-setters are feeling a bit fed up with pastels & fluoro colours, & are rebelling. The thread is fabulous eye candy, lots of editorial shots & runway ensembles, but I thought a DIY guide might be useful.
While it would be easy to just throw on a whole lot of black & feel like that was enough, that’s not quite it. The whole idea of neogoth is that it is a more grown-up, sophisticated look. All the usual components of the goth look — dyed black hair, facial piercings, corsets, striped stockings & combat boots — aren’t going to help you out if you want to dabble in this aesthetic.
Neogoth is about texture. Wool, silk, lace & leather. Wood, plastic & lacquer. Without texture there is no neogoth — just someone wearing lots of darkly-hued clothing. Some people wear black to hide themselves away, minimise themselves, appear invisible. Neogoth is about doing the opposite: making a statement, dressing it up, putting in an effort & looking fabulous.
I really feel that neogoth isn’t just about wearing black. You can go to the complete opposite end of the spectrum & wear all white & still rock the look. To me, it is mostly about attitude — & attitude can be conveyed in the smallest ways. An accessory, a style of make-up or even a hairstyle can say more about you, your mood or your aesthetic than an entire ‘neogoth-themed’ outfit from the latest collections.
Colleen of Panic Industry coined the phrase “poisoned femininity“ to describe a lot of what she sees on the catwalk at the moment, & I think that is worth incorporating into the whole neogoth thing. It’s not just clothing, it’s about feelings & mood. It’s about playing up the elements of mystery, drama & intrigue. It’s about being delicate with a dark edge, being unexpected & a little sick around the edges. Kind of like that broken dolly thing from the 90’s, just more grown-up.
I know that the word ‘goth’ throws people sometimes, so to be clear: you don’t have to dress like you’re on your way to a Renaissance Fair! Nor is there any need to get all Trenchcoat Mafia on it! Neogoth should be über-modern. Skyscraper shoes, closely-tailored garments, futuristic sunglasses — architecture with clothing.
Think sharply-cut blazers, patterned stockings, patent leather belts around the waist, scarves, unconventional hair & layers. Think platform shoes, luxurious clutches & epic nailpolish.
Here are some outfits I put together using Polyvore which help illustrate my point!
For vampy man-catching drinks: Giles Kruger Razor dress, Tarina Tarantino earrings, Alexander McQueen silk chiffon skull scarf, Alexander McQueen skull clasp clutch & Christian Louboutin Architek leather slingbacks.
For fabulous business lunches: Bodyamr Balla mini dress, Lanvin necklace, Phillippe Audibert opal bracelet, a bag & Balenciaga pull-on cowboy boots.
For knock-‘em-dead moments: Jovovich-Hawk Sunny lace detail dress, Lacoste backpack, Lanvin oxford pumps, assorted bangles.
For manga moments: Hamish Morrow hooded jersey dress, Tarina Tarantino necklace, Elisa Atheniense bag, Miu Miu leather biker boots.
For relaxed Fridays at the office: Anna Sui floral print tunic, Sonia Rykiel sunglasses, Topshop skinny jeans, Anya Hindmarch Shirley patent tote & Alexander McQueen striped leather pumps.
For vampire-slaying in small, dusty towns: Marchesa strapless embroidered dress, Celine skinny silk chiffon scarf, locket necklace, rosary, Miss Selfridge lace stockings, Urban Outfitters cowboy boots, OPI nailpolish & assorted bangles.
My general consensus is that neogoth is a fantastic new style for people who want to do something different, as well as for people for whom black is like comfort food. Just remember to push it a bit, & you’ll be right as rain.
Extra For Experts:
Looking to the 1980s – darkly: Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh and Roksanda Ilincic by Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune.
Super-love & cupcakes,
Gala
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I’ve been trying to put my finger on at least one element of the style I’m trying to attain, and now I have a name and some ideas of how to start (instead of just flailing around.) Thank you for this post!
Perfect timing on this one.
Wow. That last outfit is absolutely brilliant.
Thanks kittens! I feel like I am moving in this direction too, purely by coincidence. Wanting to appear more stylised/groomed/sleek, rather than messy/haphazard. Neogoth is a seemingly obvious choice!
I love the Bodyamr Balla mini dress, and well, that Marchesa strapless embroidered dress, I was about to blog about that one myself! :)
Hmm…I don’t know, I’m always really skeptical whenever the fashion industry decides to re-do goth. It lasts ten minutes and it’s always just the same thing, basically – toned down goth, which is what I’ve been wearing ever since I decided that polo shirts and jeans was not a good look! That’s the last five years, in case you’re wondering. Maybe I’ve just been really ahead in fashion, and now it’s catching up with me! ;P It’s nice to have some inspiration though, and of course it means that I’ll be able to find more clothes I like in the shops.
And I love the outfit with the bright blue accents and the one at the bottom. Especially the one at the bottom. I want to marry that OPI nail polish.
hmm hmmm…. finally something is RIGHT in high fashion.
i was arguing with my friend taylor that i wasn’t neogoth, but i have to say, i’ve been gravitating towards the style without knowing what it was called. coincidence?
Oh oh oh, I love how you’ve added make-up looks to your Polyvore ensembles cutie, what a great idea!
Louboutins! Squeal! & those Alexander McQueen striped leather pumps are rockin’ my world!
I’m not sure I’d be so quick as to put it in a “neogoth” box, but I’ve always thought a great deal of New Zealand high fashion has a very dark & moody kind of aesthetic.
x
Felicity — I totally agree with you. NZ style is quite dark & moody. It’s different to the neogoth thing in a way though. New Zealanders layer up SO much, I think because NZ’s temperature is so weird (never super-hot & rarely super-freezing). & NZ’ers like to cover up, much more so than Australians or, well, practically anyone else. NZ’ers love wide-cut dark pants, having their shoulders covered, thumb-holes in their sweaters. I think that idealised (high fashion) neogoth is much more stripped-back: more skin, shorter skirts, limbs lengthened by optical illusions. Know what I mean?
I was a goth back in the 80s. About 4 years ago I went to an 80s theme party and the hostess said to dress as you did in the 80s. So I donned what I thought was my old goth uniform. Upon arriving at the party, everyone took a look at me and said, “You don’t look goth, you look like you work in New York City!”
I took that both as a great compliment and a small victory.
Loved the last outfit, specially the dress. I’ll lose the rosary though but that’s just me.
Loads of kisses!!
yowza! I’ve heard of neogoth, but didnt realise it was this fabulous. I love it & i want it. Love your compositions Gala, and those Sonia Rykiel sunnies are fantastic!!
I feel like I’m inadvertently starting to move in this direction too, which is difficult, as 95 percent of my wardrobe looks like an old-school Willy Wonka-esque lolly shop. But I’m currently investing in some cleaner, darker garments, focusing on structure and texture – and this helps! Thanks, chickadee!
i think opi russian navy would look fab with the blue manga-esque look
+ i think opi ink would look fab with these looks too but i might be biased seeing as i own these shades ;)
yus! i love the rosery beads in this, it makes be want to buy 10 in bulk in various “dark” shades and link them together for a “statement” piece
i love all these and i love whats coming out for this winter – its going to be wonderful!
i adore how all the “icky” insects are in as well, there was a wonderful spread in uk vogue jan 07 with heaps of beautiful creepy crawlies
well done gala!
I sort of do this, but in black and brown (I know, I know – against the rules but I love the combination so much that I don’t care). Once in a while I’ll wear something really bright, like a grass green dress or a neon orange coat, just for fun.
Bravo!
I like it!
I wouldn’t call myself neo-goth, but there is a bit of goth/punk influence that occasionally peaks through my outfits. I can see how texture might be one way that happens.
Sherry,
Black and brown are awesome together — and don’t let anyone tell you different. Wearing one black sock and one dark brown might raise a few eyebrows, but there’s no problem when you wear the colors together purposefully.
Wow, thank you thank you thank you!
I wear black constantly but don’t feel confident enough to embrace the usual Goth look. Though I don’t even bother to buy ‘coloured’ clothes anymore because I know I just wont wear them, I still want to try to look a bit more polished and out there. I usually try to team some bright red eyeshadow or a shocking pink necklace with all the black so I don’t look like just another office worker (which I am :[).
This look sums up what I’m trying to acheive, I’m a long way off yet, still learning about fashion and buying nice things instead of cheap things. But it’s good to see it’s out there.
I still love the usual goth look, but neogoth is more me, right now. (Love the vampire slaying outfit best)
xx
This is perfect.
Through the last five years, I had three phases: super grunge phase, then crazy pink phase, now a balanced phase. I’m growing up to find out that you don’t have to be just one look, or either dark&gloomy or pink&puffy, you can be both.
This may not seem like much to some people, but for me, duality has been an issue for me.
Definitively, this article shows a great balance between the superculture and the great chic aesthetic it brings!
Love all of them, but I would love to wear the manga look with pig-tails and goggles!
:D
I really like some of the items you picked out, especially the Jovovich-Hawk dress and the Anna Sui tunic. This part did make me think a bit, though:
“It’s not just clothing, it’s about feelings & mood. It’s about playing up the elements of mystery, drama & intrigue. It’s about being delicate with a dark edge, being unexpected & a little sick around the edges.”
A while ago, you posted in TILT that you were loving “dramatic aesthetics, NOT dramatic lifestyles!”. Is this changing? I’m absolutely not trying to start a controversy, just interested to know your thoughts on how far the neogoth aesthetic (or indeed any aesthetic) should affect the way one lives. Some people might think that, for example, having an eating disorder would help them to be “delicate… and a little sick around the edges”. Perhaps I’m being oversensitive, but I feel there is a risk, when exploring “darker” aesthetics, to start glamourising things that are just plain unhealthy and sad (depression, self-harm, EDs) and feeling that you have to incorporate them into your life if you want to fully express the aesthetic.
Once again, I really don’t mean to criticise you, and I’m sorry if this doesn’t make much sense.
man i want that last dress like whoa. :( too bad its waaaay out of my price range. argh!!
Alice — No, that’s okay! I don’t mean sick around the edges as in physically or mentally. Maybe more like… wearing black with dark red (blood kind of hue) accessories. Or a skull brooch. Or something like that. Know what I mean? Purely about the clothing you put on, not at all anything to do with your mental state.
My idea of delicate with dark unexpected edges is like, a white dress with ripped stockings, or um, a big messy beehive hairdo! Not starving yourself or anything like that!
I guess some people might feel tempted to push the look too far, but I think those people are going to do it anyway. You’re either predisposed to an eating disorder or not. You either cut or you don’t. Just like exposing someone to lots of magazines won’t automatically make them want to lose weight. It affects some people, sure, but not everyone.
I am still totally anti-drama, haha. I have been there & done that & my life is much better without it. I don’t intend on going back to that shit! Also, I think people are responsible for their own lives. People’s lives are influenced by a slew of things, & so wearing black is probably not the reason why someone self-harms. Do you kind of get what I mean? A lot of people still blame Marilyn Manson for the Columbine thing, which is just ridiculous — it’s not about one thing, it’s always about a combination & someone’s individual thought patterns.
Hope I explained myself… let me know if you want further clarification. xx!
I understand now- thanks for clearing it up for me! I completely agree that it’s not the look which causes people to take it too far, but their own personality and attitude.
omfg, those polyvores are absolutely incredibleee!
wow i really like that style v.g
Fabulous! I still am reluctant to wrap my mind ‘round all the new watercolor florals for Spring ’08; neogoth is far more my speed so I’m quite relieved!
I love your outfit #2…we sold those Balenciaga booties at the store where I worked last year, and I always wished for the fierce lifestyle that would allow me to wear them. They look INSANELY hot in person.
maybe im just a dork but those blue-legs, all askew, made me laugh my head off! thanks!
xx
Natasja — Haha! That’s just the way the picture was… I had to hide them under the dress, it looked even weirder before I promise!
weird equals awesome!
Natasja — www.polyvore.com/cgi/thing?id=... !!!
BAHAHAHAHAHA!!! you’re giving me the giggles…those tights are such a great colour though, my nails are that colour today HUZZAH!
ps: we should totally meet up soon/one day/this lifetime
Ive been noticing for a few months now that the fashion world has been swaying towards textured outfits. pvc, wool, silk etc etc and i L.O.V.E it. ive been wondering what it was called for ahwile now…and now i know.
i am currently sewing on pvc onto the top of a second hand 90’s cue skirt i picked up for $4.
Hi Gala.
I work for Cue and Veronika Maine over in New Zealand, it’s so funny that you mentioned this neogoth look because that’s exactly what we’re doing for the coming winter season. We get a lot of customers who keep saying “urgh black again” (it’s ironic because NZ women LOVE black – see ricochet and zambesi) but people just have to rock it. In the back room we have written EMBRACE THE BLACK, LOVE IT, WEAR IT. It’s ALL about black this season. We’ve got the whole deal, from PVC to corset belts and socks. I loved reading this article because you nail the look right on the head – and i left with a few good points I can use as selling tips :)
xx
Clem
The Marchesa dress (with its otherworldly price tag and dimensions) can be easily substituted with altered vintage thrift shop wedding dresses.
DROOL.
that is all.
Ah! Finally I know that my fashion sensibilities have a term!
The ignorant are always terming me ‘goth’ but I haven’t fit into that stereotype for 8 years. It’s definitely lovely to see more usage of texture and fibrous fabrics. It’s very hard to find outfits that are both of those and don’t come in some fruity salmon shade with equally hideous watermelon trim.
By the way, Ms Gala, I’m going to be in your wonderful Melbourne town for a few days at the end of Feb, on my way back from Auckland. I cannot wait!
P
x
So much fabulous pretty lovely goodness – even though I am not at all mysterious, or even a wearer of black (unless it’s for work: serious/authoritative/etc). Gala, you have amazing taste, and you open up my eyes to things I would never even have considered. Thank you so much for this and all the other stuff like it. (Honestly, when I read the latest Fashion Quarterly, and it’s just full of ideas you have done before, and miles and miles BETTER, well . . I’m just very grateful for what you do.)
Clementine -- Oh, lucky you! I love Cue quite a lot, they tend to do sculptural interesting pieces really well & for a good price. Did you have the black sequinned leggings in NZ? I tried them on & they looked absolutely terrible on me, haha. A shame though, I loved them; so Balenciaga! It's interesting to hear that you're doing a lot of black. I totally agree that NZ woman are most comfortable in black, moreso than in any other country I think. But also I think a lot of women don't realise that black is a great base to work from, & it plays up other colours so well! Wearing it with raspberry or cobalt blue or lemon always looks *so good*!
Nadine — Wow, thank you so much. That means a lot. FQ is a great magazine. & you are a great woman! Huge kisses. (My momma is coming to visit me soon, maybe I should ask her to bring me a copy so I can have a peep!)
yum. Neo-Goth is delicious. The look is kind of romantic to me, but not in obvious ways. So good.
oh my… i always associated goth with a particular attitude and music taste, i’ve always loved the aesthetic, always, but my sunny disposition made me unpopular amongst the goths (i was seemingly poserish). oh dear. i remember in high school being so fascinated by the frilly black laces and soixisee sioux egyptian make-up. but in reality… i loved wearing my reversible lady-bug skirt too much.
ooohhh!
I love this look!
Perfect timing – I have been wanting to lean to more of a lolita/ dickensian/ Gibbous style with a modern-chic twist, and this is the perfect combo!
Once again, amazingly well-done, and thank you!
P.S. – I signed up for Cupcake, and i got a confirmation e-mail, and confirmed, and then i got the “Welcome!” e-mail and marked you as “safe”, but i couldn’t read the contents of the e-mail except for this:
To unsubscribe or change subscriber options visit:
www.aweber.com/z/r/......
Or is that all of the e-mail? If not, can you help? It might be my inbox, but it doesn’t block things unless they’re not safe, and then it will tell me what it blocked and allow me to choose whether i want to see the e-mail(i use hotmail btw). But then again, if no one else has problems, it’s probably just my inbox/ computer. Thought I’d let u know. Thanks!
I have darker skin…can I work this look too? These models are gorgeous. I wish I had that porcelain skin. I just feel like I’d look mismatched if I put lighter makeup on my face while the rest of my body is more olive/tan.
I suppose this is what I can call what I dress up like at times. I have this absolutely lovely knee length lacy skirt by Libertine and I wear it all the time, either with black stocking or my striped ones and my knee high boots. I really like to wear this shirt I got for my birthday a couple years ago with it. It’s a white button up with black lace about the collar and little black bows on the sleeves and it came with a black tie with white lace and bows on it. It makes me feel like a doll.
I could probably work on doing the Neogoth style. It’s always worth it making yourself more put together. You always feel more beautiful. It’s in my nature to do the whole mysterious thing anyway, I’m a Scorpio. ^.~
Ooohh! I love these outfits! Especially since you combined them with make-up looks to go. Really inspiring!
We did get those sequin leggings gala! we only got them in our queen st store though. i agree, completely balenciaga! if you are after corset belts and patent, we’ll be doing plenty of it in terms of belts and bags. also a few wicked trench coats. veronika maine is also doing the prada socks :)
x
sandr+ — Thanks for letting me know cutie. I changed something & forgot to copy it into the right box… oops! I have fixed it now though. xx!
Clementine — Awesome! That is very exciting. When will it all be in store?
we’re getting new stock in every week. so just keep popping in to see the new stuff :) hopefully we’ll get in the next few weeks, we never really know what we get till it’s delivered :D
x
Danielle: I don’t think you should put lighter make-up on your face, the result would probably be the exact opposite of the refinement of neo goth. Black looks very sexy on darker skins too, so just experiment with different textures and materials.
Gala: Great post. I really love that understated chic (not about flashy logos but about cuts and materials), and slightly morbid undertones always appeal to me.
Danielle — Yes, what Héloïse said. You should always match your foundation & make-up to your skin tone, no matter what colour clothing you’re wearing!
(laughs) I find it funny you wrote a post about this considering this is how I’ve really started dressing inn the last few months. My boyfriend calls it, “the darker side of girly,” but I guess what I’m looking for in it is a more sophisticated “goth.” Sorta taking it back to the source and doing it the right way, not the Hot Topic way.
Great article.
A friend just turned me on to your blog, and i’m loving it! I’m a big time MAC lover, and now that i’ve seen your Fafi post i’m dying for half of them, especially the lipsticks! And i absolutely must have that deep red lipstick in the first neogoth set. Do you by chance know the color? I’ve been looking over the MAC site and i’m just not sure which it might be.
thanatoid — I’m not sure! Though it looks like it might be Russian Red…
im tryin 2 get hold of the color “ironlady” it was a miss selfridges brand, can any1 help me, but im not sure if its still about or its under a diff color